How to Handle Little
Gardening Problems ©
By Arlene Wright-Correll
I have a
lot of clay around our home and in some place some sandy soil. However, I have found some plants that do
well in the sandy soil. I planted drought-tolerant plants and watered them
several times a week to get them established. Once they were well-rooted, they
tolerated the dry growing conditions associated with sandy soil.
For sunny areas, try some of
the following annuals: sunflower, zinnia, blanket flower, cosmos, cockscomb,
gazania (treasure flower), portulaca, dusty miller, Dahlberg daisy, verbena and
Mexican sunflower. And if you prefer perennials, try these sun-lovers: purple
coneflower, black-eyed Susan, gayfeather, thyme, Artemisia, perennial
sunflower, yucca, sedum, Russian sage, potentilla and ornamental grasses.
It’s harder to find shade
plants that will tolerate dry soil. But you can try perennials like deadnettle
(Lamium), variegated archangel (Lamiastrum), lily-of-the-valley and coral
bells.
Annuals such as periwinkle
and the biennial Chinese forget-me-nots will also grow in dry, partially shaded
locations.
Now that it is fall here is
my “to do” list and it should be considered yours. This is one of my favorite times of the
years. Besides the colors of the
changing leaves I can look forward to a bountiful fall and a beautiful spring. This is the time I order spring-flowering
bulbs for fall planting and I divide irises and other spring-flowering
perennials.
One can keep planting short-season vegetables like peas, lettuce, radishes and
beats for a fall harvest. Of course one gets to harvest and preserve herbs for
winter use and on the bird watching side this is the time to look for American
goldfinches building nests as thistles produce down, their preferred nesting
material and I get to try and watch as teenage birds begin to grow feathers
that make them look more like their parents.
Do you have a hard time preventing weeds like I do?
Try the following: mulch is a surface layer
spread over the ground to conserve moisture, suppress weeds and maintain a good
soil texture. Mulches may be organic, such as manure, compost,
bark chips or cocoa shells, or non-organic, for example, stones, gravel or
polythene sheeting.
Some people use weed killers and I basically stay away from them because we
try to be completely organic at Home Farm Herbery.
However, to save time and hard work weed
killers are the answer to many people’s problems.
Just make sure you read the manufacturer’s
directions and warnings real well.
Keep
the weed killer off the plants you wish to keep.
Dissolve and dilute the weed killer according
to the manufacturer’s directions and use a fine rose sprinkler head on a
watering can you use only for weed killers.
Don’t apply on a windy day or it will drift or blow onto other plants.
The best time to apply weed killer is when
the weeds are leafy and actively growing which would be mid-spring to early
summer.
Remember, regardless of whatever
the manufacturer touts many weeds do not die right off and need repeated
treatments.
Needless to say keep all
chemicals away from your children and pets.
Most of us do not realize there are annual weeds and perennial weeds.
An annual is a plant that normally completes its full cycle of growth,
flowering and seeding in a single season, and then dies. Some annuals may be
sown in autumn to flower the following spring. Annual weeds such as chickweed,
groundsel, purple dead nettle, annual nettle, fat hen, opium poppy, hairy
bittercress, annual meadow grass, speedwell and yellow oxalis have the same
kind of growing cycle.
The aim of annual weeds is to grow and set is to grow and set seed as
quickly as possible.
They grow from seed
on any recently cultivated soil and sometimes will grow on top of the newly
placed mulch you put down to stop the weeds from growing.
A vicious cycle isn’t it?
Seeds can survive for years in the soil,
waiting for the perfect conditions to grow and then you wonder, “where the heck
that one came from?”
They germinate at
lower temperatures than most garden plants, giving them a head start over their
rivals!
Once you recognize them at the
seedling stage controlling annual weeds is relatively easy.
Then you can keep from eliminating the
vegetable or flower seedling that may be growing along side of them.
Most hoe out easily or pull out when they get
to be a pick able size. Just remember to eliminate the weed you must eliminate
the root!
Only put them on your compost
heap if they do not have a seed head.
A perennial is
any plant
with an indefinite life span of more than two years. Some may be quite
short-lived, whereas trees can easily survive for centuries. Likewise perennial weeds, such as dandelions,
creeping thistle, brambles, dock, ragwort and stinging nettle have the same
type of growing cycle. Yet they are more
of a problem because they can live for several years. They survive winter by storing food in their
roots. These roots make them harder to
get rid of then annual weeds. Some are
difficult to dig out and others spread underground so if you leave even the
tiniest piece of root in the soil when you dig them out, be prepared to get a
whole new plant.
The best way to control
them is to dig out the whole plant as soon as you see them. So long as you do
not let them produce leaves, they will use up their stored up food energy and
eventually die. Never, never rotate
soils with perennial weed infestation or you will have whole new colonies of
weeds growing up in the new place.
Always dig out every little bit as they grow and with twice the effort
in order to control them. If you don’t mind using chemicals, treat them
with a weed killer containing glyphosate.
Last but not least, never put perennial weed roots
or seed-heads on to the compost heap.
One can try what is called root-proof barriers, which is a vertical barrier
that will often stop rampant roots invading from next door.
Just dig a 1 foot or 30 cm deep trench and
bury the barrier. The best material to use is damp-proof course (DPC),
available from all builders' supply store.
I keep getting asked a lot of questions about compost.
One year I bought a Mantis Composter and I
never did get the hang of it for the two years I played with it.
I finally sold it on eBay and a guy came down
Ohio to pick it up.
Now composting is probably easy with one of
those, but it was a real mystery for me.
I guess I will stick to the old way of making a compost pile and turning
it over every couple of days.
When one
talks about making a garden compost it usually means a garden compost made from
waste materials rotted down in a compost heap, but it usually refers to the
special soil or peat mixtures used for sowing and potting plants.
There are two main kinds. Soil-less compost
is made from peat or a substitute such as bark or coir. Soil-based composts are
a mixture of sterilized soil, peat or an alternative, and sand. They all have
added fertilizers.
A universal, soil-less compost is suitable for all normal sowing and potting
needs, but there are different grades of soil-based compost. You can also buy
special composts for rooting cuttings or for growing ericaceous (lime-hating) plants, orchids, and water plants.
Growing roses is really not
a big problem and I have grown all kinds from the cheap $1.98 ones to the finer
ones that cost a lot more. One of the
lovelies climbing roses I have here in Kentucky is one I bought at a
Publix’s market in Vero Beach, FL. I brought it home from a
vacation I was on in the winter of 1998 and proceeded to “kill” it off about 3
or 4 times over the next 2 years, but it is still growing strong as I write
this in September of 2006 and produces lovely red roses year after year two or
three times a season. I cannot even
remember the name of it.
I have a hard time keeping
the Rosie O’Donnell rose alive and have managed to have 3 of them over 3 seasons
fail to make it through my zone 6 area.
I do not think it is the zone, I think it is the soil even though the
last one I planted in 2005 had a whole new area of dirt brought in just for it. The other one I love and have no luck with is
Joseph’s Coat.
One of the best ones I ever
bought was an Albertine rose from The Antique Rose Emporium about 7 years ago
for $14.95. It was a small root and now
it looks the a huge stump with pink roses all up the side of our gift shop and
across a wide rose arbor and all over half the roof of our Avalon Stained Glass
School. It comes back and delivers the
loveliest, most fragrant pink roses each June.
All the others I bought from them that year have done well. But the nine I bought in 2005 from them at
$17.95 each plus shipping have all died through this past winter which was a
mild one here. I am heartily
disappointed with them as they only warrant their roses for 90 days whereas
Lowes’ garden center, providing I keep the sales slip, will guarantee them for 12
months.
I try to find
disease-resistant roses and in recent years I find in plant breeding they have
created a number of roses that are resistant to black spot. In a bad year they will get it, but only a
minor dose, thus the rest of the time they are usually trouble free. Here are a couple of my favorites.
This one is Rosa Golden Showers. It is a yellow climbing rose with dark glossy
green leaves. The height is about 6.5 ft
with a spread of 7 feet. Just as there
are many shrubby roses so there are many climbing roses, but this is one of the
best. It is an upright climber and can be pruned to be a shrub. It produces a
profusion of double flowers that are 10cm (4in) across.
Another favorite is Rosa gallica, “Versicolor” or Rosa Mundi as many might know
it by its common name. This red rose
with a white stripe is a hardy shrub growing about 2.5 ft with a 3 ft spread
with glossy green leaves. It is a lovely old and well-loved rose, neat and
bushy. Particularly charming is the semi-double, slightly scented, flat flowers
5cm (2in) in diameter. This rose prefers full sun.
Rosa rugosa is a hedgehog rose that is a hardy shrub bearing Purplish-red and white blossoms with glossy green
leaves. This rose grows to 3 ft to 6.6ft
x 3ft to 6.6ft and is a dense, vigorous species rose with attractively wrinkled
leaves. It bears a succession of flowers, 9cm (3.5in) in diameter. These are
followed in late autumn by large tomato-shapes and colored fruit (hips.)
Rosa “Iceberg” is another favorite shrub rose with a pure white flower and glossy green
leaves. It is a good compact plant about
2.5 ft by 2.1 ft. This bush rose produces many sprays of graceful double,
cupped-shaped flowers up to 7 cm (3in) in diameter that look fantastic against
the dark leaves. It also responds well to heavy pruning.
I hope this little article
will help you keep abreast of the many challenges that any gardener faces. In the event I can help you with anything
else just send an email to askarlene@scrtc.com and I will try my best to help you.
“Tread the Earth Lightly” and in the meantime… may your day be filled
with….Peace, light and love,
Arlene Wright-Correll
Remember 100%
of our profits go to St Jude's Research Hospital.
Labels: Arlene Wright-Correll, gardening, herbs, Home Farm Herbery, How to Handle Little Gardening Problems ©, seeds